INCALLAJTA

A far more substantial complex about 143km east of the city, which was built as a military outpost to protect the valley from raids by the unconquered Chiriguano tribes of the Eastern lowlands.

The nearest thing Bolivia has to Peru’s Machu Picchu is the remote and rarely visited site of Incallajta (meaning Land of the Inca) situated 132km east of Cochabamba on a flat mountain spur above the Rio Machajamarka. This was the easternmost outpost of the Inca Empire and after Tiwanaku it’s the country’s most significant archaeological site. The most prominent feature is the immense stone fortification that sprawls across alluvial terrace above the river, but al least 50 other structures are also scattered around the 12-hectare site.

Incallajta was probably founded by Inca Emperor Tupac Yupanqui, the commander who had previously marched into present day to demarcate the southern limits of the Inca Empire. It’s estimated that Incallajta was constructed in the 1460s as a measure of protection against attack by the Chiriguanos to the southeast. In 1525, the last year of Emperor Huayna Capac’s rule, the outpost was abandoned. This may have been due to a Chiriguano attack, but was more likely the result of increasing Spanish pressure and the unraveling of the empire, which fell seven years later.

The site is on a monumental scale; some researchers believe that, as well as serving a defensive purpose, it was designed as a sort of ceremonial replica of Cuzco, the Inca Capital. The site’s most significant building the Kallanka, measures a colossal 80m by 25m. The roof was supported by immense columns. Outside it is a large boulder, probably a speakers’ platform. At the western end of the site is a curious six-sided tower, perhaps used for astronomical observation. On the hilltop, a huge zigzag defensive wall has a baffled defensive entrance.

The ruins were made known to the world in 1914 by Swedish zoologist and ethnologist Ernest Nordenskjold, who spent a week at the ruins measuring and mapping them however, they were largely ignored- except by ruthless treasure hunters-for the next 50 years, until the University of San Simon in Cochabamba launched its investigations. At Pocona, 17 Km from the ruins, there’s an information center and a small exhibition of archaeological finds from the site.

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CHIQUITOS: THE JESUIT MISSIONS

East of Santa Cruz stretches a vast, sparsely-populated plain covered in scrub and fast disappearing dry tropical forest, which gradually gives way to swamp as it approaches the border with Brazil. Named Chiquitos by the Spanish (apparently because the original indigenous inhabitants lived in houses with low doorways- chiquitos means small), in the eighteenth century this region was the scene of one of the most extraordinary episodes in Spanish Colonial history, as a handful of Jesuit priests established flourishing mission towns where the region’s previously hostile indigenous inhabitants converted to Catholicism and settled in their thousands, adopting European agricultural techniques and building some of South America’s most magnificent colonial churches. This theocratic socialist utopia ended in 1767, when the Spanish crown expelled the Jesuits, allowing their indigenous churches to be exploited by settlers from Santa Cruz, who seized the Chiquitano’s lands and took many of them into forced servitude. Six of the ten Jesuit mission churches still survive, however, and have been restored and declared UNESCO World HJeritage Sites – their incongruous splendor in the midst of the wilderness is one of Bolivia’s most remarkable sights.

San Javier

Some 220Km northeast opf Santa Cruz, San Javier (also known as San Javier) is the westernmost of the Chiquitos Jesuit mission towns and was the first to be established in the region, having been founded in 1691. The town is now a quiet cattle- ranching centre with no real attractions other than the mission church itself.

·         Iglesia de San Javier

Completed in 1752 under the directions of Martin Schmidt, the formidable Swiss Jesuit priest, musician and architect who was responsible for several Chiquitos mission churches (which were immaculately restored between 1987 and 1993 under the guidance of the equally dedicated Swiss Jesuit architect Hans Roth), the huge church has a squat, sloping roof supported by huge spiraled wooden pillars, with a simple Baroque plaster façade. Above the doorway a Latin inscription common to most Jesuit mission churches in Bolivia reads Domus Dei et Porta Coeli (House of God and Gateway to heaven).

On the right side of the church as you face it a doorway leads into a cloistered courtyard, which features a freestanding bell tower. Inside the church the exquisite modern wooden retablo behind the altar features beautiful carved scenes from the Bible and of the Jesuit missionaries at work in Chiquitos. The HIS inside the fa¿laming sun at the top of the retablo stands for Jesus Savior of Man in Latin: combined with three nails and a crucifix, this is the symbol of the Jesuit order, and you´ll see it painted and engraved on mission buildings throughout Chuiquitos.

Concepción

About 68km to the east, the former mission town of Concepción is slightly larger than San Javioer, but otherwise very similar. The mission was founded in 1709 by father Lucas Caballero, who was killed two years later by the Puyzocas tribe, which later settled here. At the towns centre is broad plaza lined with single-storey whitewashed adobe houses with tiled roofs that extend over the pavement, a colonial architectural style introduced after the expulsion of the Jesuits. In the middle of the square stands a simple wooden cross, surrounded by four palms trees originally a feature of all the mission compounds.

Concepcion is the centre for efforts to reconstruct the Jesuit mission churches of Chiquitos,. And the main workshops for woodcarving and painting are behind the church a block east of the plaza. The staff here is usually happy to show visitors around for free at 10.30 am and 3.30pm from Monday to Friday.

San Ignacio de Velasco

178km east of Concepcion, San Ignacio de Velasco was founded in 1748, just nineteen years before the expulsion of the Jesuits from South America, but quickly grew to become one of the largest and most developed of the mission towns. Now the largest settlement in Chiquitos, it acts as a bustling market centre for an extensive frontier hinterland of large cattle ranched and isolated indigenous Chuiquitano communities. At its centre lies the broad plaza 31 de Julio, which is graced by numerous massive swollen-bellied toboroche trees, whose tangled branches blossom into brilliant pink and white in June and July. The towns wide, unpaved streets fan out from the plaza, and are lined with low houses whose tiled roofs extend over the pavement, supported by wooden beams.

San Miguel

Set amid scrubby forest broken by patches of cattle pasture, San Miguel is a sleepy collection of whitewashed houses about 40km south of San Ignacio on the main road to San José de Chiquitos, its humble structures make the first sight of the splendid Iglesia de San Miguel even more astounding; set on a small rise overlooking the central plaza and dominating the town, the restored church is perhaps the most beautiful of the mission churches. Founded in 1721 and built in the same barn-like style as most of the others, the church, the church facade is beautifully painted with Baroque floral designs, with pictures of St. Peter and St. Paul on either side of the main door.

To get inside, enter the walled cloister to the right – part of the original mission compound or Jesuit college which is now used by the parish priest: go under the freestanding white adobe bell tower and ask in the parish offices for someone to let you in –you are likely to have to ask around for someone with a key. Inside, the soaring roof is supported by massive tree trunks carved in spirals, while the walls are lined with metre-high wooden statues of angels. The main altarpiece is smothered in gold leaf, with alcoves filled by statues of angels and saints including (in the centre) the Archangel Michael, in a golden helmet and shield, holding a three-pronged sword aloft as he tramples the devil underfoot.

San Rafael

The second Jesuit mission in Chuiquitos when it was founded in 1696, the town of San Rafael sits 35km southeast of San Miguel, and boasts the biggest of all the region’s Jesuit churches, the Iglesia de San Rafael. A cavernous structure with a free standing bell tower supported by four spiraled wooden pillars, it was built under the direction of Martin Schmidt between 1747. The magnificent interior features beautiful frescoes of angels, and some beautifully carved statues of saints in the alcoves of the golden altarpiece.

Santa Ana

About 20km north of San Rafael on a different road back to San Ignacio, the village of Santa Ana is home to perhaps the least architecturally imposing of the mission churches of Chuiquitos. Occupying one side of a large grassy plaza where donkeys graze and schoolchildren play football, the Iglesia de Santa Ana has not yet been fully restored and as such retains an intimate, rustic charm more in keeping with the sleepy atmosphere of its surroundings than the grandiose edifices of San Rafael or Concepción. There’s some speculation as to whether this is the original Jesuit church at all built entirely of wood, it has none of the usual HIS signs and may have been rebuilt shortly after the order was expelled in 1767.

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SAMAIPATA

Samaipata has developed into one of the top gringo-trail spots over the last few years. This sleepy village in the foothills of the Cordillera Oriental is brimming with foreign run, stylish hostels and restaurants. Visitors flock to see the pre Inca site of El fuerte, some in search of a dose of the Ancient site’s supposed mystical energy, while increasingly it is the main jumping off point for forays to Parque Nacional Amboró. But it’s not just foreigners who come up here; Samaipata is a popular weekend destination for cruceños, too. The Quechua name, meaning “Rest in the Highlands”, could hardly be more appropriate.

El Fuerte

The mystical site of El Fuerte exudes such pulling power that visitors from all over the world make their way to Samaipata just to climb the hill and see the remains of this pre Inca site.Designated in 1998 as a Unesco World Heritage site, El Fuerte occupies a hilltop about 10 km from the village and offers breathtaking views across the rugged transition zone between the Andes and low-lying areas further east. There are two observation towers that allow visitors to view the ruins from above. Allow at least two hours to fully explore the complex, and take sunscreen and a hat with you. There is a kiosk with food and water next to the ticket office.

First occupied by diverse ethnic groups as early as 2000 BC, it wasn’t until 1470 AD that the Incas, the most famous tenants, first arrived. By the time the Spanish came and looted the site in the 11600s it was already deserted. The purpose of El Fuerte has long been debated, and there are several theories. 

The conquistadors, in a distinctly combative frame of mind, assumed the site has been used for defense, hence its Spanish name, “the fort”. In 1832 French naturalist Alcides d’Orbigny proclaimed that the pools and parallel canals had been used for washing gold. In 1936 German anthropologist Leo Pucher described it as an ancient temple to the serpent and the jaguar; his theory, incorporating worship of the sun and moon, is now the most accepted. Recently the place has gained a New Age following; some have claimed that it was a takeoff and landing ramp for ancient spacecraft.

There are no standing buildings, but the remains of 500 dwellings have been discovered in the immediate vicinity and ongoing excavation reveals more every day. The main site, which is almost certainly of religious significance, is a 100m-long stone slab with a variety of sculpted features: seats, tables, a conference circle, troughs, tanks, conduits and niches, which are believed to have held idols. A total of seven steps leading up the main temple represent the seven phases of the moon. Zoomorphic designs on the slab include raised reliefs of pumas and jaguars (representing power) and numerous serpents (representing fertility). Chicha and blood were poured into the snake designs as an offering to Pachamama (Mother Earth). Sadly, these designs are unprotected from the elements and erosion is making them harder to discern with every passing year.

About 300m down an obscure track behind the main ruin is Chincana, a sinister hole in the ground that appears all the more menacing by the concealing vegetation and sloping ground around it. It’s almost certainly natural, but three theories have emerged about how it might have been used: that it served as a water-storage cistern; that it functioned as a water-storage cistern; that it functioned as an escape-proof prison; and that it was part of a subterranean communication system between the main ruin and its immediate surroundings.

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12 TOP EXPERIENCES IN BOLIVIA

Bolivia is a wild place and nature lovers, aesthetes and poets alike will find landscapes, views, and nature born experiences not seen in many other places on the planet. The sheer amount of geographic, topographic, climatic and biological diversity will astound you. Then there are the playful bands of monkeys, the elegant and reclusive herds of vicuña and more than 1000 unique bird species to entertain, inspire and elevate you to a new proximity to the natural world.

1. Salar de Uyuni

Who knew feeling this cold could feel so good? While a three-to four –day jeep tour through the world’s largest salt flat will leave your bones chattering, it could quite possibly be the defining experience of your Bolivian adventure. The vastness, austerity and crystalline perfection of the salt flat will inspire you. An early morning exploration of rock gardens, geyser fields and piping hot springs along with the camaraderie of three days on the road with your fellow will create a lasting memory.

2. Trekking in the Cordillera Real

Walk in the path of the Inca along the many trekking routes that weave their way from the Andes into the Amazon Basin, through the remarkable skyward-bound wilderness of the Cordillera Real. These four –to 14-day treks are no small undertaking, but it will be worth every step, every drop of sweat and every blister. Along the way, you’ll have the chance to dine with indigenous families, cool off beside cascading waterfalls and connect with Pachamama (Mother Earth) deep within her potent green realm.

3. Tiwanaku

Bolivia’s hallmark archaeological site sets your imagination on fire. Despite lacking the power and prestige of other ruins in Latin America-those who have visited Machu Picchu or Tikal will be hard-pressed not to strike comparisons – this pre –Inca site has a lot to offer. A massive celebration is held on the winter solstice, with smaller ones taking place for the other solstice and equinoxes. The on-site museum provides a thought-provoking glimpse into life in this religious and astronomical center. An easy day trip from La Paz, Tiwanaku is a good place to start your Andean odyssey.

4. Parque Nacional Amboró

Sandwiched between the old and new roads to Cochabamba is one of Bolivia’s most biodiverse, and fortunately most accessible, protected areas-the breathtaking Parque Nacional Amboró. Here the lush, leafy Amazon kisses the thorny, dusty Chaco, and the sweaty lowlands greet the refreshing highlands. Stunning scenery, wonderful wildlife and the assistance of professional tour agencies make this a wilderness just begging to the explored.

5. Isla del Sol Titicaca

Plopped onto sprawling Lake Titicaca like the cherry on top of an ice-cream sundae, Isla del Sol is considered to be the birthplace of Andean civilization. You can easily spend four days here, tracking down forgotten Inca roads to small archeological sites, removed coves and intact indigenous communities. At the end of the day, take in the sunset with a cerveza (beer) from your ridge-top lodge. The lake itself has a magnetism, power and energy unique in this world no wonder many claim the ancient civilization of Atlantis was found here.

6. Jesuit Missions Circuit

Though traveling around the missions circuit is a challenge in itself, the fantastically ornate reconstructions of Jesuit churches that are the center pieces of the village along the route make it well worth the effort. Lovingly restored by professional artisans and historians to offer a glimpse of their former glory, the churches of the mission’s circuit are testimony to the efforts of the missionaries who, against all odds, managed to stablish communities in remote Chiquitania before being expelled from the Spanish colonies in 1767.

7. Sucre

Glistening in the Andean sun, the white city of Sucre is the birthplace of the nation and a must –see for any visitor to Bolivia. It’s an eclectic mix of the old and the new, where you can while away your days perusing historic buildings and museums, and spend your nights enjoying the city’s famous nightlife. Visitors to Sucre invariably fall in love with the place.

8. La Paz Markets

The whirling engine that feeds and fuels a nation, the markets of La Paz are so crazy, so disjointed, so colorful and mad and remarkable that you’ll end up spending at least a few afternoons wandering from stall to stall. There are sections for food, sections for sorcery, sections where you can buy back your stolen camera, sections for pipes and Styrofoam – in every shape and form imaginable – and sections packed with fruits, flowers and smelly fish that will push you to olfactory overload.

9. Samaipata

Cosmopolitan Samaipata manages to retain the air of a relaxing mountain village, despite becoming an increasingly unmissable stop on the Bolivian tourist trail. But it’s not just the great-value accommodations and top-class restaurants that bring in the visitors. Samaipata’s proximity to the mystical El Fuerte ruins and a series of worthy day trips to nearby areas of outstanding natural beauty mean that many visitors find themselves staying for a lot longer than they planned.

10. Potosí

Said to be the highest city in the world, lofty Potosí once sat upon a land laden with silver that funded the Spanish empire for centuries. Though the mines now lay all but barren and the city has long been in economic decline, the remnants of the wealthy past can still be seen through the cracked brickwork of the ornate colonial –era buildings and wonderfully preserved churches. Potosí’s most famous museum, the Casa de la Moneda, was once Bolivia’s national, mint and offers a fascinating insight into the rise and fall of a city that once described itself as the envy of kings.

11. Wine tasting near Tarija

Take a deep breath of the thin mountain air and prepare to get dizzy sampling wine from the world’s highest vineyards. Though rarely sold outside Bolivia, Tarija wines, produced in a Mediterranean like climate at altitudes of up to 2400m, are sold throughout Bolivia and have received international plaudits for their fresh, aromatic taste. Whether you prefer tinto (red), Rosado (rosé) or blanco (white), you are likely to be pleasantly surprised by the quality on offer and may find yourself taking a bottle or two home for your friends.

12. Tupiza

Cut from the pages of a Wild West novel, the canyon country around Tupiza is an awesome place for heading off into the sunset (in a saddle, atop a mountain bike, on foot or in a 4WD). From town you can ramble out into the polychromatic desert wonderlands and canyons, visiting hard –cut mining villages and the town where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid met their end. The pleasant weather and lyrical feel of the town make it a welcome retreat after a bit or hardship in the highlands.

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OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES IN BOLIVIA

Dominated by dramatic Andean scenery and home to some of South America’s most pristine wilderness areas, Bolivia should be one of the world’s top destinations for outdoor enthusiasts. As yet, though, its enormous potential is only just starting to be tapped – which for many travelers will only add to its appeal.

For climbers, trekkers and mountain bikers, Bolivia’s possibilities are virtually limitless. The best season for all these activities is between May and September, during the southern-hemisphere winter (the most pleasant and reliable weather is between December and March or April, rain turns paths and roads to mud, and streams to impassable torrents, while cloud covers the high passes and blocks many of the best views.

Trekking

Whether you want to stroll for half a day or take a hardcore hike for two weeks over high passes and down into remote Amazonian valleys, Bolivia is a paradise for trekking. The most popular trekking region is the Cordillera Real, which is blessed with spectacular high Andean scenery and is easily accessible from La Paz. The mountains here are crisscrossed by paths and mule trains used by local people that make excellent trekking routes the best of these are ancient stone-paved highways built by the Incas and earlier Andean societies. Starting near La Paz, three of Bolivia’s most popular treks – the Choro, Takesi and Yunga Cruz follow these Inca trails across the Cordillera Real before plunging down into the humid tropical valleys of the Yungas. Another good base for exploring the Cordillera Real is the town of Sorata, north of La paz, where many good trekking routes begin.

Isla del Sol and the shores of Lago Titicaca are also excellent for hiking, combining awesome scenery with gentle gradients. People looking for more seclusion should head for the remote and beautiful Cordillera Apolobamba. Elsewhere, the mountains around Sucre offer further excellent trekking possibilities, while the Reserva Biológica del Sama, near Tarija, is also home to a beautiful Inca trail.

Equipment and guides

You should always be well equipped when walking, even if it’s just a half day hike. Weather can change quickly in the mountains and it gets very cold at night. You’ll need strong hiking boots; warm layers; a waterproof top layer; a hat and gloves; an adequate first-aid kit; a water bottle and water purifiers;  sunscreen, a sun hat and sunglasses. For camping out you’ll need a decent tent; a sleeping bag that keeps you warm in temperatures as low as -5°C; an insulated sleeping mat; and a cooking stove.

The easiest way to go trekking is on an organized trip, which takes all the hassle out of route finding and means you don’t need to supply your own equipment. You’ll also have all your meals cooked for you and transport to and from trailheads arranged. If you pay a little more, you can also have your gear carried for you by a porter or pack animal.

In addition, you should always let someone in town know your plans before you head off on a long walk. It’s especially important not to trek alone if you sprain an ankle, it could be the last anyone ever sees of you.

Climbing

With hundreds of peaks over 5000m and dozen over 6000m, Bolivia has plenty of types of mountain climbing, and many new routes still to explore. As with trekking, the most popular region is the dramatic Cordillera Real, which is blessed with numerous high peaks, easy access from La Paz and fairly stable weather conditions during the dry season. In addition, the volcanic peaks of the Cordillera Occidental, particularly Sajama, offer some excellent climbs, while the more remote Cordillera Apolobamba and Cordillera Quimsa Cruz also offer a wealth of possibilities. Several of the higher peaks are well within the reach of climbers with only limited experience, while Huayna Potosí (6090m), in the Cordillera Real, is one of the few 6000m-plus peaks in South America that can be climbed by people with no mountaineering experience at all.

Though some equipment is available for hire in La Paz, you should really bring your own equipment from home if you’re planning on doing any serious independent climbing. You should also take care to acclimatize properly and be aware of the dangers of altitude sickness and extreme cold.

Mountain biking

Bolivia is home to some of the finest mountain bike routes in the world, and travelling by bike is one of the best ways to experience the Andes. Numerous tour companies in La Paz have set up downhill mountain biking trips. These involve being driven up to high pass, put on a bike, and then riding downhill at your own pace, accompanied by a guide and followed by a support vehicle. This is not an activity where you should try to save money by going with a cheap operator look for a company with experienced guides, well maintained and high-quality bikes, and adequate safety equipment.

Easily the most popular route is down the road from La Paz to coroico in the Yungas a stunning 3500 m descent which many travelers rate as one of the highlights of South America, never mind Bolivia. You don’t need any previous mountain biking to do this ride, which is easy to organize as a day-trip from La Paz. Other popular routes include Chacaltaya to La Paz, and down the Zongo valley into the Yungas from Chacaltaya, while hard-core mountain bikers can try their luck on the Takesi trail. As with trekking and climbing, though, the possibilities are pretty much endless, especially if you have your own bike.

Rafting and Kayaking

The many rivers rushing down from the Andes into the Upper Amazon valleys offer massive potential for kayaking and whitewater rafting, though these activities are not as developed as they they could be. The most easily accessible and popular river is the Rio Coroico, in the Yungas, which offers rapids from grade II to IV (and sometimes higher) and is accessible on day-trips from Coroico. The most challenging trips is down the Rio Tuichi, which runs from the high Andes down into the rainforest of the Parque Nacional Madidi.

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THE SPIRITUAL CENTER OF COPACABANA

Copacabana is the spiritual center that leads to Lake Titicaca, the sacred lake of the Incas, but also a picturesque little town dominated by a huge sanctuary where they worship the Virgen Morena of Copacabana. It is very interesting to contemplate how far drivers bring their vehicles festooned with streamers and flowers to protect themselves from dangers and accidents. In this town boats depart that cross the waters of Titicaca.

Located 158 km from La Paz, this picturesque town of adobe houses and cobbled streets is the most important of those located on the shores of Lake Titicaca and is just a few kilometers from the border with Peru, which shares with the renowned Bolivia waters of Titicaca. Copacabana was originally a pre-Columbian ceremonial and astronomical observation center that was destroyed by the conquerors, whose fingerprints were on the lithic ruins that still are in the suburbs.

In the seventeenth century (1610-1620) was built in its place the beautiful sanctuary of the Virgin of Copacabana, where in turn the son of the black image carved in wood by the Indian Francisco Tito Yupanqui, grandson of the Inca Tupac Yupanqui, is venerated founder of the Inca Empire, and is inspired by the Virgen de la Candelaria. The small size clothes are covered with valuable jewels of colonial times. The architecture of the sanctuary combines the Renaissance and Baroque styles, and its high altar is covered with silver. In the small facade is the ancient chapel of Indians, where he currently offerings of candles and drawn on the wall with wax what we want to achieve or be protected.

Copacabana The name comes from two Aymara words: Kota ("lake") and Kahuana ("lookout"). For the more curious I must say that the very popular Brazilian Copacabana beach owes its name to this small Bolivian population. In fact, around the carioca beach there is a small chapel in which an image of the Virgin of Copacabana is worshiped.

A intrepid travelers are advised to climb up the hill of Calvary of Copacabana. From the main square takes half an hour at a good pace, but preferably up slowly. Along the way are the signals of the different stations of the cross and at the top you can see several chapels or niches. But the best is that from the viewpoint of the Precious Stone, a splendid view of Copacabana and Lake Titicaca currency. Many pilgrims on the Via Crucis throw stones to symbolize the release of sins. In this mountain is frequently found to kallawayas or performing ceremonies yatiris offering to Pachamama or Mother Earth. We also get beautiful panoramic views from the Gallows del Inca, a set of rocks that was used as an astronomical observatory by pre-Incan cultures.

Copacabana is the starting point for different excursions and activities around the lake and its islands wish to undertake.

North of Titicaca skirts Apolobamba mountain range, home of kallawaya town known for its natural and "magical" medicine are. In this area walking tours can be made through villages and breathtaking mountain passes of great beauty.

A 2 km away from Copacabana is a fountain carved into the rock known as Inca Bath or Kusiyata. In its vicinity there is a pre-Columbian road and a series of terraces. It is also possible to admire a formidable work done on the rock in Intikala or Inca Court; in fact, it is gigantic boulders that once carved, must serve to determine gods or worship idols. 

They can be seen, for example, various seats carved into the rock; among them stands a step in which was carved a number of seats that gave name to the enclave.

Every August 5, feast of the Virgin of Copacabana, massive pilgrimages are made to his sanctuary, even the faithful also flock to it in large numbers during the Easter and weekends, when the blessing of cars and carriages is performed. On February 2, during the feast of the Virgin of Candelaria, no parade morenadas and suriquis, bullfight, blessing of cars and trucks, and party until late in the day.

La Virgen Morena Lake, also known as the Virgin of Copacabana, just moved from its location in the sanctuary during your holiday. If for some reason, the image was disturbed or moved out of date, the faithful are convinced that from the Titicaca catastrophic flooding will occur.

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ISLA DEL SOL

Isla del Sol

Isla del sol is the largest of the forty or so islands in Lago Titicaca and home to several thousand Aymara campesinos. The three main settlements, YUMANI, CHALLA and CHALLAPAMPA, are all in the east coast. Scattered with enigmatic ancient ruins and populated by traditional Aymara communities, it’s an excellent place to spend some time hiking and contemplating the magnificent scenery.

Challapampa

The island’s northernmost settlement, CHALLAPAMPA was founded by the Incas as a service centre for the nearby ceremonial complexes. Set on a narrow spit of land between two large bays on the east coast of the island, the village has a small museum, and several places to stay. A short walk from the village lie several fascinating Inca sites. Free local guides meet boats and can show you around the area, though many travelers find this quite a slow process.

·         The museum

The village’s museum has artefacts found both on the island and at sites off the coast, where offerings were dropped into the water, and tales of lost underwater cities persist to this day. The collection includes bronze idols, Inca and Tiwanaku pottery, and miniature human and llama figures delicately carved from spondylus shells.

·         Kasapata

From Challapampa it’s a twenty-minute walk northwest along a steep but easy-to-follow path to the ruins of a substantial Inca site called Kasapata, which was probably a waystation for pilgrims. It’s mostly rubble now, but to the left of the path a large building still stands with five characteristically Incan trapezoidal doorways, while to the north is a large carved stone block that probably had ritual importance.

·         The Santuario

Another twenty minutes further along the path beyond Kasapata is the Santuario, a ruined Inca complex built around a sacred rock. The entrance to the Santuario is marked by the remnants of a low wall. About 100m beyond the entrance you can make out the rectangular foundations of a series of buildings that housed the priests and servants who attended the temple complex.

Inside the Santuario a path crosses a bare rock marked by two depressions shaped like giant footprints dubbed the “Huellas del Sol” (Footprints of the Sun) before reaching the centre of the sanctuary. Here stands Titikala, the sacred rock from which the Incas believed the sun and moon first rose and after which Lago Titicaca was named, though there’s little in the appearance of this large outcrop of weather –beaten pink sandstone to suggest what an important religious site once was.

·         La Chincana

About 200m beyond Titikala to the northwest is a rambling complex of ruined buildings looking out west across the Lake to the Peruvian shore. Known as La Chincana (The Labyrinth), this series of interlinked rooms, plazas and passageways with numerous trapezoidal niches and doorways is thought to have been both the storehouse for sacred maize grown on the island and the living quarters for the mamconas, the so-called “Virgins of the Sun”, women specially chosen for their beauty and purity who attended the shrine, making chicha and weaving cloth for use in rituals, if you have the energy, it’s worth walking ten to fifteen minutes up to the peak at the far northern tip of Isla del Sol panoramic views.

Challa

About an hour south of Challapampa on the coastal path you reach Playa Challa, a picturesque beach on a bay, and the Qhumphuri Hostal and Restaurant. Shortly beyond here the path climbs over a headland then drops down to the village of Challa, which sits above another bay. The small museum near the waterfront has a collection of intriguing dance costumes, masks and musical instruments.

Yumani

From Challa, it’s about another two hours’ walk southest to Yumani, the Island’s largest village and home to most of its accommodation. The spectacular views and modest Iglesia de San Antonio aside, Yumani’s most characteristic sight is the Escalera del Inca, a stairway running steeply down to the lakeshore through a natural amphitheatre covered by some of the island’s finest Inca agricultural terracing, irrigated by bubbling stone canals. The canals are fed by the Fuentes del Inca, a three-spouted spring believed to have magic powers: drink from all three, the locals say, and you’ll gain knowledge of the Spanish, Quechua and Aymara languages. At the bottom of the stairway by the beach are the remains of a minor Inca building.

·         Pilko Kaina

A short walk from Yumani, around the coast to the south along a path raised on an Inca stone platform, brings you to Pilko Kaina, the Island’s best preserved Inca site. Set on a cliff about 20m above the lake, the main structure is a large and fairly well-preserved two storey stone building with classic Inca trapezoidal doorways facing east across the lake to the Isla de la Luna and mountain peaks beyond its original function remains abscure. Pilgrims travelling to the Titikala from the mainland would have passed through here after landing at the far southern tip of the island.

Arrival and departure

You can visit isla del Sol on a half-or-full day trip from Copacabana, but it’s really worth spending at least a night on the island if you can. Boats call at the settlement of Yumani, where most of the hotels are located, and the village of Challapampa at the northern end of the island. It is also possible to hike to Yampaputa, where you should be able to find a rowing or motorboat to take you across to Yumani on Isla del Sol, or Isla de la Luna.

Boat tours

Boat tours from the beach in Copacabana at around 08:30am (for a full day), with additional half-day boats at 13:30. Full –day tours generally can briefly at Yumani before docking at Challapampa. They can head back to Yumani before returning to Copacabana in the afternoon. Isla de la Luna may also be included if enough passengers want to visit it. Some boats also visit the Islas flotantes (floating red islands), though these are not on the same scale as those on the Peruvian side of lake and many travelers are underwhelmed. If you want to hike across the island, you can get off at Challapampa, walk to Yumani and be picked up in the afternoon. Alternatively, you can buy a one –way ticket and pay the return fare to any available boat when you want to come back. Half day tours, which dock at Yumani, only give you a brief glimpse of the southern end of the island, and aren’t worth doing unless you’re really short of time.

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