THE SPIRITUAL CENTER OF COPACABANA

Copacabana is the spiritual center that leads to Lake Titicaca, the sacred lake of the Incas, but also a picturesque little town dominated by a huge sanctuary where they worship the Virgen Morena of Copacabana. It is very interesting to contemplate how far drivers bring their vehicles festooned with streamers and flowers to protect themselves from dangers and accidents. In this town boats depart that cross the waters of Titicaca.

Located 158 km from La Paz, this picturesque town of adobe houses and cobbled streets is the most important of those located on the shores of Lake Titicaca and is just a few kilometers from the border with Peru, which shares with the renowned Bolivia waters of Titicaca. Copacabana was originally a pre-Columbian ceremonial and astronomical observation center that was destroyed by the conquerors, whose fingerprints were on the lithic ruins that still are in the suburbs.

In the seventeenth century (1610-1620) was built in its place the beautiful sanctuary of the Virgin of Copacabana, where in turn the son of the black image carved in wood by the Indian Francisco Tito Yupanqui, grandson of the Inca Tupac Yupanqui, is venerated founder of the Inca Empire, and is inspired by the Virgen de la Candelaria. The small size clothes are covered with valuable jewels of colonial times. The architecture of the sanctuary combines the Renaissance and Baroque styles, and its high altar is covered with silver. In the small facade is the ancient chapel of Indians, where he currently offerings of candles and drawn on the wall with wax what we want to achieve or be protected.

Copacabana The name comes from two Aymara words: Kota ("lake") and Kahuana ("lookout"). For the more curious I must say that the very popular Brazilian Copacabana beach owes its name to this small Bolivian population. In fact, around the carioca beach there is a small chapel in which an image of the Virgin of Copacabana is worshiped.

A intrepid travelers are advised to climb up the hill of Calvary of Copacabana. From the main square takes half an hour at a good pace, but preferably up slowly. Along the way are the signals of the different stations of the cross and at the top you can see several chapels or niches. But the best is that from the viewpoint of the Precious Stone, a splendid view of Copacabana and Lake Titicaca currency. Many pilgrims on the Via Crucis throw stones to symbolize the release of sins. In this mountain is frequently found to kallawayas or performing ceremonies yatiris offering to Pachamama or Mother Earth. We also get beautiful panoramic views from the Gallows del Inca, a set of rocks that was used as an astronomical observatory by pre-Incan cultures.

Copacabana is the starting point for different excursions and activities around the lake and its islands wish to undertake.

North of Titicaca skirts Apolobamba mountain range, home of kallawaya town known for its natural and "magical" medicine are. In this area walking tours can be made through villages and breathtaking mountain passes of great beauty.

A 2 km away from Copacabana is a fountain carved into the rock known as Inca Bath or Kusiyata. In its vicinity there is a pre-Columbian road and a series of terraces. It is also possible to admire a formidable work done on the rock in Intikala or Inca Court; in fact, it is gigantic boulders that once carved, must serve to determine gods or worship idols. 

They can be seen, for example, various seats carved into the rock; among them stands a step in which was carved a number of seats that gave name to the enclave.

Every August 5, feast of the Virgin of Copacabana, massive pilgrimages are made to his sanctuary, even the faithful also flock to it in large numbers during the Easter and weekends, when the blessing of cars and carriages is performed. On February 2, during the feast of the Virgin of Candelaria, no parade morenadas and suriquis, bullfight, blessing of cars and trucks, and party until late in the day.

La Virgen Morena Lake, also known as the Virgin of Copacabana, just moved from its location in the sanctuary during your holiday. If for some reason, the image was disturbed or moved out of date, the faithful are convinced that from the Titicaca catastrophic flooding will occur.

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ISLA DEL SOL

Isla del Sol

Isla del sol is the largest of the forty or so islands in Lago Titicaca and home to several thousand Aymara campesinos. The three main settlements, YUMANI, CHALLA and CHALLAPAMPA, are all in the east coast. Scattered with enigmatic ancient ruins and populated by traditional Aymara communities, it’s an excellent place to spend some time hiking and contemplating the magnificent scenery.

Challapampa

The island’s northernmost settlement, CHALLAPAMPA was founded by the Incas as a service centre for the nearby ceremonial complexes. Set on a narrow spit of land between two large bays on the east coast of the island, the village has a small museum, and several places to stay. A short walk from the village lie several fascinating Inca sites. Free local guides meet boats and can show you around the area, though many travelers find this quite a slow process.

·         The museum

The village’s museum has artefacts found both on the island and at sites off the coast, where offerings were dropped into the water, and tales of lost underwater cities persist to this day. The collection includes bronze idols, Inca and Tiwanaku pottery, and miniature human and llama figures delicately carved from spondylus shells.

·         Kasapata

From Challapampa it’s a twenty-minute walk northwest along a steep but easy-to-follow path to the ruins of a substantial Inca site called Kasapata, which was probably a waystation for pilgrims. It’s mostly rubble now, but to the left of the path a large building still stands with five characteristically Incan trapezoidal doorways, while to the north is a large carved stone block that probably had ritual importance.

·         The Santuario

Another twenty minutes further along the path beyond Kasapata is the Santuario, a ruined Inca complex built around a sacred rock. The entrance to the Santuario is marked by the remnants of a low wall. About 100m beyond the entrance you can make out the rectangular foundations of a series of buildings that housed the priests and servants who attended the temple complex.

Inside the Santuario a path crosses a bare rock marked by two depressions shaped like giant footprints dubbed the “Huellas del Sol” (Footprints of the Sun) before reaching the centre of the sanctuary. Here stands Titikala, the sacred rock from which the Incas believed the sun and moon first rose and after which Lago Titicaca was named, though there’s little in the appearance of this large outcrop of weather –beaten pink sandstone to suggest what an important religious site once was.

·         La Chincana

About 200m beyond Titikala to the northwest is a rambling complex of ruined buildings looking out west across the Lake to the Peruvian shore. Known as La Chincana (The Labyrinth), this series of interlinked rooms, plazas and passageways with numerous trapezoidal niches and doorways is thought to have been both the storehouse for sacred maize grown on the island and the living quarters for the mamconas, the so-called “Virgins of the Sun”, women specially chosen for their beauty and purity who attended the shrine, making chicha and weaving cloth for use in rituals, if you have the energy, it’s worth walking ten to fifteen minutes up to the peak at the far northern tip of Isla del Sol panoramic views.

Challa

About an hour south of Challapampa on the coastal path you reach Playa Challa, a picturesque beach on a bay, and the Qhumphuri Hostal and Restaurant. Shortly beyond here the path climbs over a headland then drops down to the village of Challa, which sits above another bay. The small museum near the waterfront has a collection of intriguing dance costumes, masks and musical instruments.

Yumani

From Challa, it’s about another two hours’ walk southest to Yumani, the Island’s largest village and home to most of its accommodation. The spectacular views and modest Iglesia de San Antonio aside, Yumani’s most characteristic sight is the Escalera del Inca, a stairway running steeply down to the lakeshore through a natural amphitheatre covered by some of the island’s finest Inca agricultural terracing, irrigated by bubbling stone canals. The canals are fed by the Fuentes del Inca, a three-spouted spring believed to have magic powers: drink from all three, the locals say, and you’ll gain knowledge of the Spanish, Quechua and Aymara languages. At the bottom of the stairway by the beach are the remains of a minor Inca building.

·         Pilko Kaina

A short walk from Yumani, around the coast to the south along a path raised on an Inca stone platform, brings you to Pilko Kaina, the Island’s best preserved Inca site. Set on a cliff about 20m above the lake, the main structure is a large and fairly well-preserved two storey stone building with classic Inca trapezoidal doorways facing east across the lake to the Isla de la Luna and mountain peaks beyond its original function remains abscure. Pilgrims travelling to the Titikala from the mainland would have passed through here after landing at the far southern tip of the island.

Arrival and departure

You can visit isla del Sol on a half-or-full day trip from Copacabana, but it’s really worth spending at least a night on the island if you can. Boats call at the settlement of Yumani, where most of the hotels are located, and the village of Challapampa at the northern end of the island. It is also possible to hike to Yampaputa, where you should be able to find a rowing or motorboat to take you across to Yumani on Isla del Sol, or Isla de la Luna.

Boat tours

Boat tours from the beach in Copacabana at around 08:30am (for a full day), with additional half-day boats at 13:30. Full –day tours generally can briefly at Yumani before docking at Challapampa. They can head back to Yumani before returning to Copacabana in the afternoon. Isla de la Luna may also be included if enough passengers want to visit it. Some boats also visit the Islas flotantes (floating red islands), though these are not on the same scale as those on the Peruvian side of lake and many travelers are underwhelmed. If you want to hike across the island, you can get off at Challapampa, walk to Yumani and be picked up in the afternoon. Alternatively, you can buy a one –way ticket and pay the return fare to any available boat when you want to come back. Half day tours, which dock at Yumani, only give you a brief glimpse of the southern end of the island, and aren’t worth doing unless you’re really short of time.

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AMAZING VIDEO ABOUT DEATH ROAD BOLIVIA - FREAK OUT BIKING

Trekking and climbing near La Paz – Bolivia

Four so called “Inca Trails” link the Altiplano with the Yungas, taking you from the high Andes to the sub-tropics, with dramatic changes in weather, temperature and vegetation. Each has excellent sections of stonework and they vary in difficulty from relatively straightforward to quite hard-going. In the rainy season going can be particularly tough.

Takesi Trail

Start at Ventilla, walk up the valley for about three hours passing the village of Choquekhota until the track crosses the river and to the right of the road, there is a falling-down brick wall with a map painted on it. The Takesi and Alto Takesi trails start here, following the path to the right of the wall. The road continues to Mina San Francisco. In the first hour’s climb from the wall is excellent stone paving which is Inca or pre-Inca, depending on who you believe, either side of the pass at 4630m. There are camping possibilities at Estancia Takesi and in the village of Kakapi you can sleep at the simple Kakapi Tourist Lodge, 10 beds with good mattresses, solar shower and toilet. It is run by the local community and sponsored by Fundación Chojlla, between which and Yanacachi is a gate where it is necessary to register and often pay a small fee. Yanakachi has a number of good places to stay, several good hikes and an orphanage you can help at. The Fundación Pueblo office on the plaza has information. Buy a minibus ticket on arrival in Yanacachi or walk 45 minutes down to the La Paz-Chulumani road for transport. 

The trek can be done in one long day, especially if you organize a jeep to the start of the trail, but is more relaxing in two or three. If you take it slowly, though, you’ll have to carry camping kit. Hire mules in Choquekhota for $us 8 per day plus up to $us 8 for the muleteer. A 2-3 day alternative is from Mina San Francisco to el Castillo and the village of Chaco on the La Paz-Chulumani road. This trek is called La Reconquistada and has the distinction of including a 200m disused mining tunnel.

Choro Trail (La cumber to Coroico)

Inmediately before the road drops down from La Cumbre to start the descent to Las Yungas, there is a good dirt road leading up to the apacheta (narrow pass) where the trail starts properly. Cloud and bad weather are normal at La Cumbre (4660m): you have to sign in at the Guardaparque post on the way to the pass. The trail passes Samaña Pampa, Chucura, Challapampa, the Choro bridge and the Río Jacun-Manini (fill up with water at both river crossings). At Sandillani it is possible to stay at the lodge or camp in the carefully tended garden of Japanese man, Tamji Hanamura, who keeps a book with the names of every passing traveler. He likes to see postcards and pictures from other countries. There is good paving down to Villa Esmeralda, after which is Chairo (lodging and camping), then to Yolosa. It takes three days to trek from La Cumbre to Chairo, from where you can take a truck to Puente Yolosita, the turn-off for Coroico on the new road. From Puente Yolosita truck run uphill to Coroico when they fill 15 minutes. The Choro trail has a reputation for unfriendliness and occasional robbery, take care.

Yunga Cruz (Chuñavi to Chulumani)

The best, but hardest of the four “Inca Trails, it has seen Little use in recent years and may be basdly overgrown; enquire in advance. From Chuñavi (3710m) follow the path left (east) and coutour gently up. Camping possible after two hours. Continue along the path staying on left hand side of the ridge to reach Cerro Khala Ciudad (literally, stone city mountain). Good paving brings you round the hill to join a path coming from Quircoma (on your right); continue, heading north, to Cerro Cuchillatuca and then Cerro Yunga Cruz, where there is water and camping is possible. After this point water and camping are difficult and normally impossible until you get down to Sikilini. The last water and camping possibilities are all within the next hour, take advantage of them. Each person should have at least two litres of water in bottles. Colectivos run from Sikilini to Chulumani. Starting in Chuñavi the trek takes days. An alternative route is from Chuñavi to Irupana.

Huayna Potosí

Huayna Potosí (6088 m) is normally climbed in two days, with one night in a basic shelter at 5300 m or camped on a glacier at 5600 m. Acclimatization and experience on ice are essential , and the mountain is dangerous out of season. There are four shelters: a community-run shelter 10 minutes up from the pass, one by the lake, very cold; Refugio Huayna Potosí at 4780 m, with toilets and shower, run by the tour operator of the same name, and a basic shelter at 5300 owned by the same operator. Average cost is $us100 per person for two day tour for the normal route is at Zongo. A three-day trek in the area is also offered.

Trekking and climbing from Sorata

Sorata is the starting point for climbing Illampu and Ancohuma. All routes out of the town are difficult. Owing to the number of paths in the area and the very steep ascent. Experience and full equipment are necessary. You can hire trekking guides and mules. The 3-4 day trek to Lagunas Chillata and Glaciar is the most common and gets busy during high season. Laguna Chillata can also be reached by road or on a long day-hike with light gear, but mind the difficult navigation and take warm clothing. Laguna Chillata has been heavily impacted by tourism (remove all trash, do not throw it in the pits around the lake) and groups frequently camp there. The Illampu Circuit, a 6-7 day high-altitude trek (three passes over 4000 m, one over 5000 m) around Illampu, is excellent. It can get very cold and it is hard walk, though very beautiful with nice campsites on the way. Some food can be bought in Cocoyo on the third day. Youmust be acclimatized before to setting out. Another option is the Trans-Cordillera Trek, 10-12 days from Sorata to Huayna Potosí, or longer all the way to Illimani at the opposite (south) end of the Cordillera Real. Some communities charge visitors fees along the way and there have in the past been armed holdups near Laguna San Francisco but no incidents reported in recent years.

Cordillera Apolobamba

The Area Protegida Apolobamba forms part of the Cordillera Apolobamba, the north extensión of the Cordillera Real. The range itself has many 5000 m-plus peaks, while the conservation area of some 483,744 ha protects herd of vicuña, huge flocks of flamingos and many condors. The area adjoins the Parque Nacional Madidi. This is great trekking country and the 4-6 day Charazani to Pelechuco (or vice versa) mountain trek is one of the best in the country.  It passes traditional villages and the peaks of the southern Cordillera Apolobamba.

Charazani is the biggest village in the region (3200 m), with hot springs. Its three-day fiesta is around 16 july. There are some cheap alojamientos, restaurants and shops. Pelechuco (3600 m) is a smaller village. Also with cheap alojamientos, restaurants and shops. The road to Pelechuco goes through the Area Protegida, passing the community of Ulla Ulla, 5 Km outside of which are the reserve’s HQ at La Cabaña. Visitors are welcome to see the orphaned vicuñas. There are economical community hostels at the villages of Lagunillas and Agua Blanca. Basic food is available in the communities. For more information, contact SERNAP in La Paz.

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The Natural World of Bolivia

When people think of Bolivia they generally conjure up images of somewhere high (La Paz), dry (Altiplano) and salty (Uyuni salt plains). While this may be true for large areas of country, there’s much more to the Bolivian landscape than just mountains. The range of altitude – from 130m in the jungles of the Amazon Basin to 6542m on the peaks of the rugged Andes – has resulted in a huge variety of ecological and geological niches supporting a bewildering variety of nature. Enviromentally it is one of the most diverse countries on the continent.

The country has 1415 bird species and 5000 described plant species, some of the highest numbers in the world. It is also among the neotropical countries with the highest numbers in the world. It is also among the neotropical countries with the highest level of endemism (species which exist only in Bolivia), with 21 birds, 28 reptiles, 72 amphibians and 25 mammals found nowhere else on earth.

But while it may seem obvious that Bolivia’s natural resources are one its greatest assets, not everybody values assets that don´t have a direct monetary value. From the lush tropical forests of Amboró National Park to the wetlands of the Pantanal, the scrub that obscures the Chaco gas fields and the Polylepis woodlands of the Andes, the Bolivian environment is under constant threat from destruction for economic explotation.

The Land

Two Andean mountain chains define the west of the country, with many peaks above 6000m. The Cordillera Occidental, in the west, stands between Bolivia and the Pacific coast. The Eastern Cordillera Real runs southest, then turns south across central Bolivia, joining the other chain to form the southern Cordillera Central.

The haunting Altiplano (altitude 3500m to 4000m) is boxed in by these two great cordilleras. It’s an immense, nearly treeless plain punctuated by mountains and solitary volcanic peaks. At the Altiplano’s northern end, straddling the Peruvian border, Lake Titicaca is one of the world’s highest navigable lakes. In the far southwestern corner, the land is drier and less populated. The salty remnants of two vast ancient lakes, the salar the Uyuni and the Salar de Coipasa, are there as well.

East of the Cordillera Central are the central Highlands, a region of mate. North of the Cordillera Real, the rainy yungas form a transition zone between arid highlands and humid lowlands. More than half of Bolivia’s total area in the Amazon Basin, with sweaty tropical rainforest in the western section, and flat cerrados (savannas) and extensions of the Pantanal wetland in the east. In the country’s southeastern corner is the nearly impenetrable scrubland of the Gran Chaco, an arid, thorny forest that experiences the highest temperatures in the country.

 National Parks & Reserves

Bolivia has protected 18% of its total land by declaring 22 national protected areas and additional regional reserves under what is known as the Sistema Nacional de areas Protegidas (SNAP). The system is one of the most extensive on the continent, but even though it covers much of Bolivia’s most amazing landscapes, the reality is that most reserves are only nominally protected.

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"VILLA ALBINA" A BEAUTIFUL MANSION IN PAIRUMANI - COCHABAMBA

In 1915, Simón I. Patiño ordered the development of the first planes to their cottage, Villa Albina, on land that had just acquired in Pairumani, at the foot of the Cordillera del Tunari. Driven by the desire to create a true agricultural and cattle ranch, was gradually acquiring land adjacent to constitute a large area around the property whose central part is the Model Farm Pairumani as it is known today.

From 1917 began construction of stables, corrals, piggeries and stables for different animals purchased in Argentina, USA and Europe. Over time, these facilities a dairy, an ice factory, an industrial mill and building joined in a titanic work to more than 4,000 m high dam San Francisco on Tunari River, whose waters of Lake allowed artificial irrigation of crops and the generation of hydroelectric energy needed to operate the farm, thanks to a power plant at the foot of the mountain range.
With all these facilities, in 1928 the farm reached its cruising speed, becoming the pioneer of industrial dairy in Bolivia.
The year 2007 begins to validate all experiences and agro biological methods through scientific research, develops a diploma in veterinary homeopathy ethno and together with renowned universities nationwide. Moreover marketing this year suffered a very positive change positioned the product locally forcefully and demonstrate that high product quality is accessible to all people entering the same in the subsidy-feeding.
In the mid 90s, Pairumani put at the forefront of Organic production with its conversion to a biological model Pioneer Agro-level South America. This model which bases its work philosophy on respect for the soil, plant and animal, crown their efforts in 2003 with the production of dairy agro biological, chemical-free synthesis can the discerning consumer to find in the regional market products milk, drinkable yogurt, unsweetened yogurt, yogurt with fresh fruit and cheese semi matured.
El barón del estaño dreamed of living in this place, which is now a melting pot of research and place of family outing
A path flanked by towering red glasses ceibos mark the entrance road to Villa Albina, a complex that has become a bastion of ecological respect and a place of peace and harmony with nature.
This is an area of ​​service to society and a tourist walk 260 hectares of arable land and 100 of forest areas, the Foundation held in joint ownership with former colonists.
The central building of Villa Albina, named after the wife of Simón I. Patiño, keeps intact the elegance with which it was designed around 1920 by architect José Aurigas (with some modifications Max Franz) and then built by the French constructor F. Nardín.
The rooms are arranged around a central courtyard square, where a complete source assembly characterized by lightness and tranquility.
On the ground floor were located at reception halls, billiard room, dining room, ballroom, toilets and desktop Patiño. All crafted furniture with style "art nouveau". Heavy curtains, wallpaper Viennese, alabaster lamps and period paintings complete the set.
Rounding gardens with marble sculptures and dozens of species of trees. There is also built in marble mausoleum where the remains of Patiño spouses and children René, Antenor and Graciela.
Part of Villa Albina environments have been converted into laboratories Phytoecogenetic Research Center, where specialists work with advanced technologies to preserve the genetic diversity of various natural products and to create improved seeds, resistant to disease, drought, more nutritious and higher production

The tourism sector is a sector that is beginning to take hold, possessing Vinto important recreational centers mainly in the north, where the hacienda Villa Albina Pairumani, famous for its gardens of Asian influence, exotic ornamental trees, thus becoming one of the most important and attractive sights of the region. The ecological park offers Pairumani eucalyptus forests suitable for walking and camping in this park are the services of a typical restaurant, a natural waterfall and sports fields for recreation. In this place worked a hydroelectric station belonged to male Tin.
Villa Albina, elegant stately mansion in Pairumani, at the foot of the Cordillera del Tunari, located 13 Km from Cochabamba. It was ordered built between 1925 and 1932 by Simón I. Patiño for his wife Albina Rodriguez Patino. It is accessed by a beautiful road flanked jacarandas and ceibos. 
The estate is surrounded by beautiful gardens, embellished with marble statues, replicas of famous sculptures of antiquity. In its perimeter is the family mausoleum, which lie Don Simon, his wife and some of his children.

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PARQUE NACIONAL TORO TORO

Some 130 Km south of Cochabamba, Parque Nacional Toro Toro, protects a remote ans sparsely inhabited stretch of the arid, scrubby landscape that is characteristic of the Eastern foothills and valleys of the Andes. Covering just 164 square kilometers around the village of the same name, Toro Toro is Bolivia’s smallest national park, but what it lacks in size it makes up for with is powerful scenery and varied attractions. The park encompasses a high, hanging valley and deep eroded canyons, ringed by low mountains whose twisted geological formations are strewn with fossils, dinosaur footprints and labyrinthine limestone cave complexes. In addition, the park’s woodland supports considerable wildlife –including flocks of parakeets and the rare and beautiful red-fronted macaw, found only in this particular region of Bolivia – while ancient rock paintings and pre-Inca ruins reveal a long-standing human presence. The main attractions are the limestone caves of Umajallanta, the beautiful, waterfall-filled Toro Toro Canyon, and hiking expeditions to the pre-Inca ruined fortress of Llama Chaqui. Two days are generally enough to see the main attractions though it’s worth taking longer if you want to explore the area more fully.

Brief history

Though reached from Cochabamba, Parque Nacional Toro Toro actually lies within Northern Potosí department. Before the Spanish conquest this was the core territory of the Charcas Confederation, a powerful collection of different ethnic groups subject to Inca rule. Following the conquest, the different Quechua- and Aymara – speaking groups that made up the confederation retained their distinct identities, each as separate ayllus (extended kinship groups, similar to clans or tribes). The ayllus of Northern Potosí mostly live in the higher-altitude lands to the west of the region, where they grow potatos and raise livestock, but they maintain islands of territory in the dry valleys such as Toro Toro, where they cultivate maize, wheat and other lower altitude crops. This system ensures each group has access to the produce of different altitudes, and represents a distinctly Andean form of organization that has long fascinated anthropologists.

Throughout the colonial era and long after independence, Northern Potosí was the focus of frequent indigenous uprisings. As recently as 1958, during the upheaval following the 1952 revolution, Toro Toro village – which was formed in the late colonial period by mestizo migrants from Cochabamba – was ransacked by armed ayllu member, who seized the lands of the haciendas that had been established on their traditional valley territories.

Toro Toro

The administrative centre of the park and the only base from which to explore it is the sleepy village of Toro Toro. Home to just a few hundred people, it stands beside the river of the same name at the top of a broad hanging valley at an altitude of about 2600m and is the place to find food, accommodation, guides and information. Toro Toro’s main annual celebration is the Fiesta de Tata Santiago, held on July 25 each year, when the ayllus descend on the village to drink, dance and stage ritual Tinku flights.

The dinosaur tracks of Cerro Huayllas

The park’s clearest dinosaur tracks are on the lower slopes of Cerro Huayllas, the mountain just east of the village across the Río Toro Toro (generally only a stream in the May –Sept dry season). To reach them , walk back along the road to Cochabamba and cross at the ford, turn right and walk upstream about 100m, then climb about 20m up the rocky slope to your left. The tracks were made by a quadruped herbivore that roamed the region in the Cretaceous era more than sixty million years ago – they comprise a trail of deep circular prints about 50 cm in diameter imprinted in a sloping plane of grey rock and set about 1m apart. A little further upstream there’s another trail of smaller (and much less distinct) prints left by a three-toed carnivore.

Along the Río Toro Toro

Follow the Río Toro Toro downstream from the Cerro Huayllas dinosaur tracks for about twenty minutes and you’ll reach a stretch where the rushing rainy-season waters have carved great stone basins out of the soft bedrock – locals refer to this stretch as Batea Cocha (beating Pool), as they look a bit like basins for pounding laundry. About 7m up the rock face on the left bank, protected by a low adobe wall, is a collection of ancient rock paintings (pinturas rupestres). Mostly abstracts designs painted in red ochre, with several zigzags-including one that looks like a serpent and another that could be the sun or a star-the paintings are all less than 1m long and have been partly defaced, but they provide a focus for what is anyway a pleasant stroll down the river. A little further downstream there’s a pretty waterfall that forms a good swimming hole; beyond that, the river plunges down into the deep Toro Toro Canyon and you can walk no further, though you can access the canyon from further downstream.

Toro Toro Canyon

Just north of Toro Toro village the Río Toro Toro plunges through the deep Toro Toro Canyon, probably the park’s most beautiful section. Enclosed on either side by sheer, 200m-high cliffs covered with stunted trees and spiky bromeliads, the river creates a series of waterfalls as it tumbles over a jumble of massive boulders, forming pools that are ideal for swimming. The route down to the rock –strewn canyon floor is easy to find without a guide (though you shouldn’t go alone in case you hurt yourself and can’t get back).

To get down into the canyon, follow the road out of town towards Cochabamba for about 200m. Where the road turns sharply to the right, follow the track heading off to the left, and walk for about twenty minutes until you see some well-made stone steps dropping steeply down the side of the canyon to your left. The most picturesque stretch of the canyon is a few hundred meters downstream from where the steps reach the bottom, where a ten-meter-high waterfall known as El Vergel emerges from the side of the canyon on the right in several streams wich cover the rock face in slimy –green water weeds.

Caverna de Umajallanta

The most extensive and easiest to visit of the park’s many limestone cave system is the Caverna de Umajallanta, where nearly 5Km of underground passages have been explored. The Cave makes a great day trip from Toro Toro and is one of the park’s most popular attractions; on no account attempt to visit without a guide as it is easy to get lost once inside. Its entrance is about 8Km northwest of Toro Toro, a walk of ninety minutes to two hours across the rolling landscape with good views of the dramatic geology of the mountain ridges that surround the Toro Toro valley-about halfway you’ll pass a trail of dinosaur footprints. The cave complex was formed by the waters of the Rio Umajallanta, wich disappears below the surface here and re-emerges as a waterfall high above the Toro Toro Canyon, 6Km away to the east. It consists of a series of interconnected limestone caverns of varying sizes, one of which contains a lake fed by the river that is home to some blind white fish.

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