sábado, 20 de junio de 2015

Chacaltaya

O pico Chalcataya está localizado a cerca de 30 km de La Paz e a uma distancia muito próxima de Huayna Potosí e a 5421 metros de altura acima do nível do mar. É conhecida por nevar em todas as épocas do ano (porém a neve existente diminui a cada ano).  A viagem é bastante popular para turistas.
A estação de esqui mais alta do mundo estava localizada no Chalcataya, porém foi desativada em 2009 justamente por causa do derretimento da neve. O passeio turístico começa em La Paz, chegando á antiga estação de esqui em cerca de 90 minutos. Depois disso, é encarar uma subida de 200 metros de altura. Do alto do Chalcataya é possível apreciar uma bela vista sobre La Paz, e das montanhas Illimani, Mururata, além da famosa Huayna Potosí que fica a 6088 metros acima do nível do mar e que também é destino de muitos turistas.
Para essa subida, é importante levar roupas quentes, água, óculos de sol, protetor solar e claro, uma ótima câmera fotográfica. Além disso, é importante encarar a subida com calma. É aconselhável parar e descansar por 30 segundos a cada 10 passos caminhados, mesmo que não exista a sensação de cansaço, devido a altitude. Em caso de tontura, é recomendável sentar e descansar até a sensação passar. Caso isso não aconteça, a única solução é descer.
Os amantes de aventura também encontram uma boa opção no passeio de mountain bike que vai de Chalcataya até Zogo, numa rota de 60 km de uma belíssima paisagem, além de uma descida vertical de 4100 metros.
Do Chalcataya também é possível caminhar até o acampamento de base do Huayna Potosí em um trecho que dura metade de um dia. Mas antes desse roteiro, é importante conseguir um mapa e algumas instruções com o Instituto Geografico Militar.

Se o alojamento do Clube Andino estiver aberto, existe a opção de fazer um pequeno lanche ou tomar uma bebida quente. Para comer algo com mais consistência, é aconselhável trazer da cidade um almoço.
O pernoite no alojamento do Clube Andino também é possível. Para isso, além dos agasalhos, comida e água citados, um saco de dormir quente é fundamental.
Para os recém chegados em La Paz, é aconselhável esperar alguns dias para ir ao Chalcataya por conta da adaptação a altitude.

Vale da Lua
Cerca de 10km de distancia do centro da cidade de La Paz, o Vale da Lua é um lugar agradável para quem busca uma pausa da La Paz urbana dentro da própria cidade. Trata-se de um vale com pedras rochosas com formato similar as da lua. Acessível a caminhadas, com uma trilha patrulhada e regular, pode ser visitado por uma manhã ou em excursão em conjunto com o Chalcataya que preenche um dia inteiro.
Várias espécies de cactos crescem na região, incluindo a espécie Echinopsis pachanoi, também conhecido como cacto de São Pedro. Infelizmente a área acabou sendo delimitada pelo crescimento urbano. Apesar disso, é um ambiente que proporciona ao turista belas vistas e um contato maior com a natureza.

Nossa companhia
Nossa companhia oferece um passeio de um dia completo com as duas atrações, que consistem no seguinte programa:
Entre 8:45 a 9:15 te buscamos em seu hostel. Começamos com a subida ao Chalcataya. É um passeio de aproximadamente 2 horas que te proporcionará ao final uma linda paisagem com as montanhas da Cordilheira dos Andes. Uma bela oportunidade para amantes de fotografia.

Saindo do Chalcataya, vamos até o vale da lua para ver um lugar único com bonitas formações rochosas que dão ao visitante a sensação de realmente estar pisando um mundo novo. Temos uma caminhada curta para admirar sua beleza natural e tirar fotos. Após a visita, voltamos a La Paz.

martes, 16 de junio de 2015

A Estrada da morte

Trata-se de um passeio de cerca 80 km que une a região de Yungas a La Paz, a capital da Bolívia. E porque essa é considerada a estrada mais perigosa do mundo?

Uma parte dela foi construída por prisioneiros paraguaios durante a guerra do Chaco em 1930. Além disso, é por suas decidas íngremes e falta de grades de proteção que o trecho é considerado perigoso.
A viagem começa, ainda de van, saindo de La Paz, a 3.600 metros acima do nível do mar até “La Cumbre” que possui a 4.650 de altitude. Depois se inicia uma decida de 3.600 metros em 64 km já montado nas bicicletas.

A estrada é feita de pedra, além de ser estreita e irregular. Há alguns trechos que sua largura é de apenas 3 metros. E em muitos casos, os veículos que estão seguindo viagem, quando se deparam com outros na direção contraria, são obrigados a voltar para trás até um ponto onde seja possível realizar a passagem.
                                                                              
Quanto mais se avança com a estrada, mais curvas fechadas e perigosas aparecem, além de pedras escorregadias que deslizam desfiladeiro abaixo. O desafio, porém, não acaba aqui. A estrada é atingida por algumas quedas d’agua, ainda que fracas, deixam a pista molhada e escorregadia. Outro desafio encontrado é a neblina que muitas vezes limita a visão dos ciclistas á apenas um metro de distancia.

Os riscos da estrada fazem ser um destino popular aos turistas desde 1990, especialmente aos praticantes de mountain bike. Em dias de sol,os ciclistas também contam com uma belíssima paisagem no começo da descida. O trecho, além de ser montanhoso também conta com uma vegetação tropical, o que dá aos viajantes uma sensação única de liberdade e aventura.
 A estrada da morte é um grande atrativo para amantes aventuras e viciados em adrenalina.

viernes, 12 de junio de 2015

O Salar de Uyuni

O Salar de Uyuni é considerado o maior deserto de sal do mundo. Está localizado no departamento de Potosí, que fica a sudoeste da Bolívia, sendo perto da borda da Cordilheira dos Andes. Sem dúvida se trata de uma das mais belas atrações turísticas do país.

A área do Salar fazia parte do gigante e pré histórico lago Minchin. Quando o lago secou, deixou de herança os lagos Poopó e Uru Uru, além dos desertos de sal de Coipasa de menor extensão e o grande Salar de Uyuni. Suas dimensões chegam a ser maiores que o lago Titicaca, que faz fronteira entre a Bolívia e o Peru.
A cada Novembro três espécies de Flamingos (Chileno, James e andiana) iniciam sua procriação pelo Salar de Uyuni. Isso torna o passeio mais atrativo para muitos turistas que nunca tiveram a oportunidade de ver esses animais ao ar livre. Em meio ao deserto também há a Ilha do Pescado, formada cactos gigantes em sua extensão. Esse é o único sinal de vida visível por vários quilômetros.

A Lagona Verde, Laguna Colorada e as nascentes de águas termais podem ser vistas durante o passeio quando se entra na Reserva Nacional Eduardo Avaroa. A Laguna Verde é um bonito lago de coloração esverdeada, localizado perto da fronteira com o Chile nos pés do vulcão Licanbabur. A Laguna colorada é um lago de coloração carmim onde flamingos habitam (os flamingos conseguem viver em altas altitudes e baixas temperaturas!) criando uma paisagem de beleza singular.

O Salar de Uyuni é o ícone de beleza natural que alavanca o turismo da Bolívia para o mundo. Se a sua destinação na América do Sul é a Bolívia, você pode aproveitar essa oportunidade e conhecer também as belezas naturais do resto do país.
Para visitar essas atrações turísticas, você precisará contratar uma agencia séria e preocupada com a qualidade de seu passeio, o que fará sua viagem se tornar inesquecível.

Corridas disputadas no céu.

O Rally Dakar, ao passar pela Bolívia deixou um monumento de presente aos turistas.
Esse acaba sendo também parada obrigatória de todos os turistas que visitam a região.
Esse ano a Bolívia repetiu e melhorou a recepção realizada em 2014 para o Rally Dakar em seu território nacional na fase entre Iquique (Chile) e Uyuni. A rota foi encarada por dezenas de pilotos corajosos, que passaram por Uyuni, onde uma festa foi armada desde que os primeiros carros chegaram ao País.
Os veículos chegaram em um ambiente cercado por beleza, musica e dança. Foram mostrados aos pilotos os nove diferentes departamentos da Bolívia, um pouco da cultura de cada município, suas danças típicas.
O público ficou particularmente encantado nas apresentações de Tinku, Caporales, Morenada, diablada, chobena de Santa Cruz entre outras danças e reagiu com delírios e aplausos.

martes, 28 de abril de 2015

INCALLAJTA

A far more substantial complex about 143km east of the city, which was built as a military outpost to protect the valley from raids by the unconquered Chiriguano tribes of the Eastern lowlands.

The nearest thing Bolivia has to Peru’s Machu Picchu is the remote and rarely visited site of Incallajta (meaning Land of the Inca) situated 132km east of Cochabamba on a flat mountain spur above the Rio Machajamarka. This was the easternmost outpost of the Inca Empire and after Tiwanaku it’s the country’s most significant archaeological site. The most prominent feature is the immense stone fortification that sprawls across alluvial terrace above the river, but al least 50 other structures are also scattered around the 12-hectare site.

Incallajta was probably founded by Inca Emperor Tupac Yupanqui, the commander who had previously marched into present day to demarcate the southern limits of the Inca Empire. It’s estimated that Incallajta was constructed in the 1460s as a measure of protection against attack by the Chiriguanos to the southeast. In 1525, the last year of Emperor Huayna Capac’s rule, the outpost was abandoned. This may have been due to a Chiriguano attack, but was more likely the result of increasing Spanish pressure and the unraveling of the empire, which fell seven years later.

The site is on a monumental scale; some researchers believe that, as well as serving a defensive purpose, it was designed as a sort of ceremonial replica of Cuzco, the Inca Capital. The site’s most significant building the Kallanka, measures a colossal 80m by 25m. The roof was supported by immense columns. Outside it is a large boulder, probably a speakers’ platform. At the western end of the site is a curious six-sided tower, perhaps used for astronomical observation. On the hilltop, a huge zigzag defensive wall has a baffled defensive entrance.

The ruins were made known to the world in 1914 by Swedish zoologist and ethnologist Ernest Nordenskjold, who spent a week at the ruins measuring and mapping them however, they were largely ignored- except by ruthless treasure hunters-for the next 50 years, until the University of San Simon in Cochabamba launched its investigations. At Pocona, 17 Km from the ruins, there’s an information center and a small exhibition of archaeological finds from the site.
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CHIQUITOS: THE JESUIT MISSIONS

East of Santa Cruz stretches a vast, sparsely-populated plain covered in scrub and fast disappearing dry tropical forest, which gradually gives way to swamp as it approaches the border with Brazil. Named Chiquitos by the Spanish (apparently because the original indigenous inhabitants lived in houses with low doorways- chiquitos means small), in the eighteenth century this region was the scene of one of the most extraordinary episodes in Spanish Colonial history, as a handful of Jesuit priests established flourishing mission towns where the region’s previously hostile indigenous inhabitants converted to Catholicism and settled in their thousands, adopting European agricultural techniques and building some of South America’s most magnificent colonial churches. This theocratic socialist utopia ended in 1767, when the Spanish crown expelled the Jesuits, allowing their indigenous churches to be exploited by settlers from Santa Cruz, who seized the Chiquitano’s lands and took many of them into forced servitude. Six of the ten Jesuit mission churches still survive, however, and have been restored and declared UNESCO World HJeritage Sites – their incongruous splendor in the midst of the wilderness is one of Bolivia’s most remarkable sights.
San Javier
Some 220Km northeast opf Santa Cruz, San Javier (also known as San Javier) is the westernmost of the Chiquitos Jesuit mission towns and was the first to be established in the region, having been founded in 1691. The town is now a quiet cattle- ranching centre with no real attractions other than the mission church itself.
·         Iglesia de San Javier
Completed in 1752 under the directions of Martin Schmidt, the formidable Swiss Jesuit priest, musician and architect who was responsible for several Chiquitos mission churches (which were immaculately restored between 1987 and 1993 under the guidance of the equally dedicated Swiss Jesuit architect Hans Roth), the huge church has a squat, sloping roof supported by huge spiraled wooden pillars, with a simple Baroque plaster façade. Above the doorway a Latin inscription common to most Jesuit mission churches in Bolivia reads Domus Dei et Porta Coeli (House of God and Gateway to heaven).
On the right side of the church as you face it a doorway leads into a cloistered courtyard, which features a freestanding bell tower. Inside the church the exquisite modern wooden retablo behind the altar features beautiful carved scenes from the Bible and of the Jesuit missionaries at work in Chiquitos. The HIS inside the fa¿laming sun at the top of the retablo stands for Jesus Savior of Man in Latin: combined with three nails and a crucifix, this is the symbol of the Jesuit order, and you´ll see it painted and engraved on mission buildings throughout Chuiquitos.
Concepción
About 68km to the east, the former mission town of Concepción is slightly larger than San Javioer, but otherwise very similar. The mission was founded in 1709 by father Lucas Caballero, who was killed two years later by the Puyzocas tribe, which later settled here. At the towns centre is broad plaza lined with single-storey whitewashed adobe houses with tiled roofs that extend over the pavement, a colonial architectural style introduced after the expulsion of the Jesuits. In the middle of the square stands a simple wooden cross, surrounded by four palms trees originally a feature of all the mission compounds.
Concepcion is the centre for efforts to reconstruct the Jesuit mission churches of Chiquitos,. And the main workshops for woodcarving and painting are behind the church a block east of the plaza. The staff here is usually happy to show visitors around for free at 10.30 am and 3.30pm from Monday to Friday.

San Ignacio de Velasco
178km east of Concepcion, San Ignacio de Velasco was founded in 1748, just nineteen years before the expulsion of the Jesuits from South America, but quickly grew to become one of the largest and most developed of the mission towns. Now the largest settlement in Chiquitos, it acts as a bustling market centre for an extensive frontier hinterland of large cattle ranched and isolated indigenous Chuiquitano communities. At its centre lies the broad plaza 31 de Julio, which is graced by numerous massive swollen-bellied toboroche trees, whose tangled branches blossom into brilliant pink and white in June and July. The towns wide, unpaved streets fan out from the plaza, and are lined with low houses whose tiled roofs extend over the pavement, supported by wooden beams.

San Miguel
Set amid scrubby forest broken by patches of cattle pasture, San Miguel is a sleepy collection of whitewashed houses about 40km south of San Ignacio on the main road to San José de Chiquitos, its humble structures make the first sight of the splendid Iglesia de San Miguel even more astounding; set on a small rise overlooking the central plaza and dominating the town, the restored church is perhaps the most beautiful of the mission churches. Founded in 1721 and built in the same barn-like style as most of the others, the church, the church facade is beautifully painted with Baroque floral designs, with pictures of St. Peter and St. Paul on either side of the main door.
To get inside, enter the walled cloister to the right – part of the original mission compound or Jesuit college which is now used by the parish priest: go under the freestanding white adobe bell tower and ask in the parish offices for someone to let you in –you are likely to have to ask around for someone with a key. Inside, the soaring roof is supported by massive tree trunks carved in spirals, while the walls are lined with metre-high wooden statues of angels. The main altarpiece is smothered in gold leaf, with alcoves filled by statues of angels and saints including (in the centre) the Archangel Michael, in a golden helmet and shield, holding a three-pronged sword aloft as he tramples the devil underfoot.
San Rafael
The second Jesuit mission in Chuiquitos when it was founded in 1696, the town of San Rafael sits 35km southeast of San Miguel, and boasts the biggest of all the region’s Jesuit churches, the Iglesia de San Rafael. A cavernous structure with a free standing bell tower supported by four spiraled wooden pillars, it was built under the direction of Martin Schmidt between 1747. The magnificent interior features beautiful frescoes of angels, and some beautifully carved statues of saints in the alcoves of the golden altarpiece.
Santa Ana
About 20km north of San Rafael on a different road back to San Ignacio, the village of Santa Ana is home to perhaps the least architecturally imposing of the mission churches of Chuiquitos. Occupying one side of a large grassy plaza where donkeys graze and schoolchildren play football, the Iglesia de Santa Ana has not yet been fully restored and as such retains an intimate, rustic charm more in keeping with the sleepy atmosphere of its surroundings than the grandiose edifices of San Rafael or Concepción. There’s some speculation as to whether this is the original Jesuit church at all built entirely of wood, it has none of the usual HIS signs and may have been rebuilt shortly after the order was expelled in 1767.


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sábado, 25 de abril de 2015

SAMAIPATA

Samaipata has developed into one of the top gringo-trail spots over the last few years. This sleepy village in the foothills of the Cordillera Oriental is brimming with foreign run, stylish hostels and restaurants. Visitors flock to see the pre Inca site of El fuerte, some in search of a dose of the Ancient site’s supposed mystical energy, while increasingly it is the main jumping off point for forays to Parque Nacional Amboró. But it’s not just foreigners who come up here; Samaipata is a popular weekend destination for cruceños, too. The Quechua name, meaning “Rest in the Highlands”, could hardly be more appropriate.

El Fuerte



The mystical site of El Fuerte exudes such pulling power that visitors from all over the world make their way to Samaipata just to climb the hill and see the remains of this pre Inca site.Designated in 1998 as a Unesco World Heritage site, El Fuerte occupies a hilltop about 10 km from the village and offers breathtaking views across the rugged transition zone between the Andes and low-lying areas further east. There are two observation towers that allow visitors to view the ruins from above. Allow at least two hours to fully explore the complex, and take sunscreen and a hat with you. There is a kiosk with food and water next to the ticket office.


First occupied by diverse ethnic groups as early as 2000 BC, it wasn’t until 1470 AD that the Incas, the most famous tenants, first arrived. By the time the Spanish came and looted the site in the 11600s it was already deserted. The purpose of El Fuerte has long been debated, and there are several theories. 

The conquistadors, in a distinctly combative frame of mind, assumed the site has been used for defense, hence its Spanish name, “the fort”. In 1832 French naturalist Alcides d’Orbigny proclaimed that the pools and parallel canals had been used for washing gold. In 1936 German anthropologist Leo Pucher described it as an ancient temple to the serpent and the jaguar; his theory, incorporating worship of the sun and moon, is now the most accepted. Recently the place has gained a New Age following; some have claimed that it was a takeoff and landing ramp for ancient spacecraft.
There are no standing buildings, but the remains of 500 dwellings have been discovered in the immediate vicinity and ongoing excavation reveals more every day. The main site, which is almost certainly of religious significance, is a 100m-long stone slab with a variety of sculpted features: seats, tables, a conference circle, troughs, tanks, conduits and niches, which are believed to have held idols. A total of seven steps leading up the main temple represent the seven phases of the moon. Zoomorphic designs on the slab include raised reliefs of pumas and jaguars (representing power) and numerous serpents (representing fertility). Chicha and blood were poured into the snake designs as an offering to Pachamama (Mother Earth). Sadly, these designs are unprotected from the elements and erosion is making them harder to discern with every passing year.


About 300m down an obscure track behind the main ruin is Chincana, a sinister hole in the ground that appears all the more menacing by the concealing vegetation and sloping ground around it. It’s almost certainly natural, but three theories have emerged about how it might have been used: that it served as a water-storage cistern; that it functioned as a water-storage cistern; that it functioned as an escape-proof prison; and that it was part of a subterranean communication system between the main ruin and its immediate surroundings.

viernes, 24 de abril de 2015

12 TOP EXPERIENCES IN BOLIVIA

Bolivia is a wild place and nature lovers, aesthetes and poets alike will find landscapes, views, and nature born experiences not seen in many other places on the planet. The sheer amount of geographic, topographic, climatic and biological diversity will astound you. Then there are the playful bands of monkeys, the elegant and reclusive herds of vicuña and more than 1000 unique bird species to entertain, inspire and elevate you to a new proximity to the natural world.

1. Salar de Uyuni
Who knew feeling this cold could feel so good? While a three-to four –day jeep tour through the world’s largest salt flat will leave your bones chattering, it could quite possibly be the defining experience of your Bolivian adventure. The vastness, austerity and crystalline perfection of the salt flat will inspire you. An early morning exploration of rock gardens, geyser fields and piping hot springs along with the camaraderie of three days on the road with your fellow will create a lasting memory.


2. Trekking in the Cordillera Real
Walk in the path of the Inca along the many trekking routes that weave their way from the Andes into the Amazon Basin, through the remarkable skyward-bound wilderness of the Cordillera Real. These four –to 14-day treks are no small undertaking, but it will be worth every step, every drop of sweat and every blister. Along the way, you’ll have the chance to dine with indigenous families, cool off beside cascading waterfalls and connect with Pachamama (Mother Earth) deep within her potent green realm.

3. Tiwanaku
Bolivia’s hallmark archaeological site sets your imagination on fire. Despite lacking the power and prestige of other ruins in Latin America-those who have visited Machu Picchu or Tikal will be hard-pressed not to strike comparisons – this pre –Inca site has a lot to offer. A massive celebration is held on the winter solstice, with smaller ones taking place for the other solstice and equinoxes. The on-site museum provides a thought-provoking glimpse into life in this religious and astronomical center. An easy day trip from La Paz, Tiwanaku is a good place to start your Andean odyssey.


4. Parque Nacional Amboró
Sandwiched between the old and new roads to Cochabamba is one of Bolivia’s most biodiverse, and fortunately most accessible, protected areas-the breathtaking Parque Nacional Amboró. Here the lush, leafy Amazon kisses the thorny, dusty Chaco, and the sweaty lowlands greet the refreshing highlands. Stunning scenery, wonderful wildlife and the assistance of professional tour agencies make this a wilderness just begging to the explored.

5. Isla del Sol Titicaca

Plopped onto sprawling Lake Titicaca like the cherry on top of an ice-cream sundae, Isla del Sol is considered to be the birthplace of Andean civilization. You can easily spend four days here, tracking down forgotten Inca roads to small archeological sites, removed coves and intact indigenous communities. At the end of the day, take in the sunset with a cerveza (beer) from your ridge-top lodge. The lake itself has a magnetism, power and energy unique in this world no wonder many claim the ancient civilization of Atlantis was found here.

6. Jesuit Missions Circuit

Though traveling around the missions circuit is a challenge in itself, the fantastically ornate reconstructions of Jesuit churches that are the center pieces of the village along the route make it well worth the effort. Lovingly restored by professional artisans and historians to offer a glimpse of their former glory, the churches of the mission’s circuit are testimony to the efforts of the missionaries who, against all odds, managed to stablish communities in remote Chiquitania before being expelled from the Spanish colonies in 1767.

7. Sucre
Glistening in the Andean sun, the white city of Sucre is the birthplace of the nation and a must –see for any visitor to Bolivia. It’s an eclectic mix of the old and the new, where you can while away your days perusing historic buildings and museums, and spend your nights enjoying the city’s famous nightlife. Visitors to Sucre invariably fall in love with the place.

8. La Paz Markets
The whirling engine that feeds and fuels a nation, the markets of La Paz are so crazy, so disjointed, so colorful and mad and remarkable that you’ll end up spending at least a few afternoons wandering from stall to stall. There are sections for food, sections for sorcery, sections where you can buy back your stolen camera, sections for pipes and Styrofoam – in every shape and form imaginable – and sections packed with fruits, flowers and smelly fish that will push you to olfactory overload.


9. Samaipata
Cosmopolitan Samaipata manages to retain the air of a relaxing mountain village, despite becoming an increasingly unmissable stop on the Bolivian tourist trail. But it’s not just the great-value accommodations and top-class restaurants that bring in the visitors. Samaipata’s proximity to the mystical El Fuerte ruins and a series of worthy day trips to nearby areas of outstanding natural beauty mean that many visitors find themselves staying for a lot longer than they planned.

10. Potosí
Said to be the highest city in the world, lofty Potosí once sat upon a land laden with silver that funded the Spanish empire for centuries. Though the mines now lay all but barren and the city has long been in economic decline, the remnants of the wealthy past can still be seen through the cracked brickwork of the ornate colonial –era buildings and wonderfully preserved churches. Potosí’s most famous museum, the Casa de la Moneda, was once Bolivia’s national, mint and offers a fascinating insight into the rise and fall of a city that once described itself as the envy of kings.

11. Wine tasting near Tarija
Take a deep breath of the thin mountain air and prepare to get dizzy sampling wine from the world’s highest vineyards. Though rarely sold outside Bolivia, Tarija wines, produced in a Mediterranean like climate at altitudes of up to 2400m, are sold throughout Bolivia and have received international plaudits for their fresh, aromatic taste. Whether you prefer tinto (red), Rosado (rosé) or blanco (white), you are likely to be pleasantly surprised by the quality on offer and may find yourself taking a bottle or two home for your friends.


12. Tupiza

Cut from the pages of a Wild West novel, the canyon country around Tupiza is an awesome place for heading off into the sunset (in a saddle, atop a mountain bike, on foot or in a 4WD). From town you can ramble out into the polychromatic desert wonderlands and canyons, visiting hard –cut mining villages and the town where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid met their end. The pleasant weather and lyrical feel of the town make it a welcome retreat after a bit or hardship in the highlands.

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