Samaipata has
developed into one of the top gringo-trail spots over the last few years.
This sleepy village in the foothills of the Cordillera Oriental is brimming
with foreign run, stylish hostels and restaurants. Visitors flock to see the
pre Inca site of El fuerte, some in search of a dose of the Ancient site’s
supposed mystical energy, while increasingly it is the main jumping off point
for forays to Parque Nacional Amboró. But it’s not just foreigners who come up
here; Samaipata is a popular weekend destination for cruceños, too. The Quechua
name, meaning “Rest in the Highlands”, could hardly be more appropriate.
El Fuerte
The mystical site of El Fuerte exudes such pulling power that visitors
from all over the world make their way to Samaipata just to climb the hill and
see the remains of this pre Inca site.Designated in 1998 as a Unesco World
Heritage site, El Fuerte occupies a hilltop about 10 km from the village and
offers breathtaking views across the rugged transition zone between the Andes
and low-lying areas further east. There are two observation towers that allow
visitors to view the ruins from above. Allow at least two hours to fully
explore the complex, and take sunscreen and a hat with you. There is a kiosk
with food and water next to the ticket office.
First occupied
by diverse ethnic groups as early as 2000 BC, it wasn’t until 1470 AD that the
Incas, the most famous tenants, first arrived. By the time the Spanish came and
looted the site in the 11600s it was already deserted. The purpose of El Fuerte
has long been debated, and there are several theories.
The
conquistadors, in a distinctly combative frame of mind, assumed the site has
been used for defense, hence its Spanish name, “the fort”. In 1832 French
naturalist Alcides d’Orbigny proclaimed that the pools and parallel canals had
been used for washing gold. In 1936 German anthropologist Leo Pucher described
it as an ancient temple to the serpent and the jaguar; his theory,
incorporating worship of the sun and moon, is now the most accepted. Recently
the place has gained a New Age following; some have claimed that it was a
takeoff and landing ramp for ancient spacecraft.
There are no standing
buildings, but the remains of 500 dwellings have been discovered in the
immediate vicinity and ongoing excavation reveals more every day. The main
site, which is almost certainly of religious significance, is a 100m-long stone
slab with a variety of sculpted features: seats, tables, a conference circle,
troughs, tanks, conduits and niches, which are believed to have held idols. A
total of seven steps leading up the main temple represent the seven phases of
the moon. Zoomorphic designs on the slab include raised reliefs of pumas and
jaguars (representing power) and numerous serpents (representing fertility).
Chicha and blood were poured into the snake designs as an offering to Pachamama
(Mother Earth). Sadly, these designs are unprotected from the elements and
erosion is making them harder to discern with every passing year.
About 300m down
an obscure track behind the main ruin is Chincana, a sinister hole in the
ground that appears all the more menacing by the concealing vegetation and
sloping ground around it. It’s almost certainly natural, but three theories
have emerged about how it might have been used: that it served as a
water-storage cistern; that it functioned as a water-storage cistern; that it
functioned as an escape-proof prison; and that it was part of a subterranean
communication system between the main ruin and its immediate surroundings.
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